The Granada Travel Guide 2019

Granada; the only way to describe this city is ‘enchanting’.

Follow its cobbled narrow streets and uphill winding valleys, and you’re generously rewarded with mesmerising views where the Alhambra, Albaicin and Sierra Nevada make a mesmerising backdrop.

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Our seven-day trip was initially meant to cover the ‘golden triangle’ of Andalusia i.e. Granada, Cordoba and Seville – that being said however, our trip to Cordoba was brief and we decided to delay our Seville trip for next time, in favour of spending more time enjoying Granada. Because honestly, it’s absolutely worth it.

This post will cover a range of categories, including how to get around and where to eat – hopefully more practical than my previous travel post format which was a day-by-day account. PLEASE NOTE: this will be quite a hefty and image-heavy post so feel free to skip to the summary at the bottom of this post with a list of all aforementioned places, important notes and a link to my Granada map on Google Maps. Enjoy!

How to Get Around

Getting around Granada is fairly easy, and traveling between key places is generally fast. I’d honestly recommend exploring the city on foot whenever possible as there’s so much to see – it’s worth it for the views alone! On that note though, do make sure to take comfortable footwear which is suitable for walking as there are uneven footpaths, many stairs and lots of steep inclines.

That aside, when you do need transport, we found that the local cabs are reasonably priced. We also used Uber regularly to get around, and found that both of these options were relatively affordable compared to what we’re used to here in the UK. You also have the option to ride the bus around Granada, although we didn’t use it.

For more long distance travel, we found the ALSA bus service to be brilliant – coaches which travel from city to city, and they’re affordable, reliable and comfortable. Book online to guarantee your seats for a specific time, or buy your tickets at the desk. I’d advise checking the timings beforehand as the schedule is quite spaced out throughout the day.

HOW WE TRAVELED: upon arrival in Spain, we traveled from Malaga Airport to Granada using the ALSA service; tickets are available at the kiosk outside the airport, and the buses are parked outside. It costed approx. 12 euros and took roughly 2.5 hours, after which we took a cab to our apartment. Later in the trip, to get to Cordoba, we took a cab to Granada Bus Station (Estación de Autobuses de Granada) and from there, took the ALSA service to Cordoba and then a cab to La Mezquita (the Mosque of Cordoba). The rest of our trip was mostly on foot, with one or two cab journeys in between.

Explore & Experience

It goes without saying, but the number one item on your Granada to-do list must be the Alhambra & Generalife – and for good reason. The Alhambra is absolutely impeccable and even if you’re not interested in architecture or design, it will take your breath away. Making brilliant use of the sensory, the Alhambra dazzles with its beauty shimmering in golden sunlight, the crisp sound of trickling water and the coolness of masterful tilework all around you – it makes you wonder about the people who once walked these courtyards. If the Palace and its courtyards haven’t made your heart skip a beat, the Generalife will; lush and generous gardens which lull you into a state of serenity, it’s a wonderful green escape.

Book online months in advance to secure your viewing, especially as you’ll be allocated a specific date and time for visiting the Nasrid Palaces which become fully booked fast. We booked our ‘Alhambra General’ tickets here, which include the Nasrid Palaces and Generalife.

It’s been an incredible challenge to filter down from my 940+ images of the Alhambra and only include about twenty in this post! Just a few more..

Another favourite which we discovered owing to recommendations; Madrasa Yusufiyya (also called the Madrasa of Granada – pictured below) which now forms part of the University of Granada, located next to the Cathedral, is truly worth a visit. It features some of the most ornate decorative plasterwork (stucco) – consider it a more colourful rendition of that seen in the Alhambra, mirroring too the famous ‘La Ghalib Illallah’.

An excellent segue into viewpoints, the Mezquita Mayor de Granada (the Mosque of Granada) pictured below is a must on your visit list and a worthy cause to support; one of the most impeccable masjids we’ve seen, it’s incredibly well-managed and well-maintained, with beautiful architecture and a delightful courtyard which buzzes with tourists moments before sunset. For good reason too, because here offers possibly the best view of the epic landscape embellished by the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada in the distance. Next door to the Mosque is Mirador San Nicolas, the terrace of an old church which too offers an incredible view and is alive with crowds, singing and street art as the day progresses.

QUICK TIP: for the best views, reach there about an hour before sunset so you can secure a spot and watch the gradual shift in the sky until the sun finally sets. It’s also worth waiting for the night sky to emerge, to see the illuminated Alhambra in the dark.

If you’re up for climbing and more views, we also climbed the hills of Sacromonte (pictured below) which offers incredible views (my golden sunset post on Instagram was on the climb down from here). We’d also been recommended to visit San Miguel Alto, a church famous for its views over the city.

History & Museums

Returning closer to home, do take a stroll along River Darro (pictured left) which was once a pivotal part of Granada’s infrastructure and named after the Roman word for gold (aurus) since people would pan for gold on its banks. Today, it’s a quaint and scenic route offering a lovely walk through the old town.

Not too far from here, Casa Zafra (pictured below) is worth a visit; a museum in a 14th century Moorish house, it has some beautiful spaces and views; we stumbled in five minutes before closing time and the lady kindly allowed us to have a swift browse free of charge.

Possibly my favourite of the museum visits, the ‘Madinat Garnata’ exhibition at Corral del Carbon (pictured below) was fantastic and offered a truly eye-opening insight into life in old Granada and the ways of the Moriscos. Artefacts, miniatures and other visuals really bring this reality to life and transport you back through the ages in a fascinating way.

See also: Palacio de los Olvidados (Palace of the Forgotten), a museum dedicated to the Jews who were erased during the Spanish Inquisition. We walked by it many times not realising this was a museum, and only just discovered it.

An Honourable Mention

Although it’s in Cordoba, it simply wouldn’t make sense to omit the Mezquita or Mosque of Cordoba (originally named Aljama Masjid) from this list. Without a doubt, this site alone is worth the 2.5 hour journey and I’d absolutely recommend spending a generous amount of time there.

In addition to the phenomenal and grand structure of this Mosque, its history is haunting. As you observe, you see the introduction of Christian design elements, including details like the cross on the hanging lamps. I found myself in awe walking under the stone arches, enveloped by its grandeur but also a haunting sense of its dark history. La Mezquita absorbs you in its sorrowful beauty as you slowly walk its halls, cast your eyes over its brilliance and contemplate the stories these pillars hold. If you have time, which we unfortunately didn’t, please do me a favour and also experience the patio with its orange trees and fountains (and I’ve read mentions of a twisted olive tree apparently worth seeing).

On that note, check the opening times for La Mezquita and try to avoid visiting on a Sunday as we did as it’s opened for limited hours (otherwise it’s open from 10am to 6/7pm the rest of the week – again, check to be sure). According to online sources, you can visit La Mezquita for free from Monday to Saturday, 8.30am to 9.30am, but individually and in strict silence. Also, no need to book in advance; tickets can be brought at the entrance and it seems the queues here are usually quite short.

Some other notables in Cordoba (which we sadly didn’t have time for): the Alcazar of Cordoba famous for its castle and gardens, Madinat al-Zahra which is a fascinating archeaological site where once stood the beautiful Moorish palace-city built by the first Umayyad Caliph of Cordoba, and lastly, nearby to La Mezquita, the Roman Bridge of Cordoba (pictured left).

Where to Shop

All of the above considered, let’s not ignore Granada’s wonderful city centre – as a London girl, Calle Reyes Catolicos (pictured below) reminded me of a quieter and more spacious Oxford Street and is every bit as modern in contrast to the old town vibes of Albaicin. In addition to big high street names such as Zara, H&M and the like, there are also some cool independent stores worth peeking into including the Alhambra Bookstore – and of course, the countless little souvenir stores along your trip. Also, if you’re looking for fragrances or just fancy a sweet little browse, check out Patio de los Perfume which has an exquisite array of scents and a lovely little courtyard at the back (also pictured below).

Where to Eat

Finally, Granada was wonderful to us in regards to halal options (and no alcohol on these premises either!) If you’re looking for a high-quality wholesome meal and a lovely dining atmosphere, check out Shawarma King on the main road or Tajine Elvira slightly further down (thank you Sumaya for this suggestion!). For a quick takeaway, Kabab King is great (I believe it’s part of Shawarma King though not entirely sure). Do also visit Puerta de Syria for another choice of hearty excellent dishes; although bear in mind that there’s another place on the same road with the same name – you’re looking for the restaurant with a water feature at the front.

For a quick caffeine boost, try Cafeteria Lisboa on the main road for excellent coffee and dessert – or, surrounded by the loveliest souvenir shops, Teteria As Sirat offers a delightful and authentic experience including a brilliant hot drink menu and intricately designed interior. If you make a trip to the Mosque of Granada, visit Restaurante y Teteria Marrakech even for a quick coffee – it’s lovely, and who can resist a brew at the height of the Granada landscape?

Granada Postcard Summary

Welcome to the ‘Postcard Summary’, which is basically a summary of all the places, services and important notes mentioned throughout this post. I’ve also compiled all of these places onto a Google Map so you can easily refer to it on your travels. Enjoy!