Morocco Travel Guide ’19: Marrakech & Fes

Ah, Morocco! A whirlwind for the senses, an awakening of sights, sounds and secrets; an enchantment where your sense of direction fades but your sense of wonder spirals..

We were in Morocco for seven days, with a short two-day trip to Fes in the middle. People often ask which city we prefer and I honestly can’t choose. A week is simply not enough for a land as strange and mystical as Morocco. There were aspects which made me uncomfortably aware of my Western creature comforts and others which were simply delightful, rich and vibrant in all the ways you dream a place could be.

My last few days of our trip were spent fighting off a brutal bug. On our flight back to Marrakech from Fes, I felt a sudden wave of sickness; fever, restlessness and a desperate anxiety to get off the plane. Oh, how grateful I was that the flight was only an hour long. Despite being unwell, I was keen to make the most of these remaining days and so we did – in between downing electrolytes, sleeping off the weakness and forcing myself out of the door.

Being unwell meant that I lost track of the specific days and times in this trip (it took me weeks to recover!), so for that reason – and to make it easier to categorise – I’ve grouped this post into headings which aren’t in any particular order. Enjoy – maybe even grab a glass of mint tea?

N.B. Feel free to skip to the Postcard Summary at the bottom of this post with a list of all mentioned places, important notes and a link to my Morocco maps on Google Maps.

Historical Spaces

Let’s first cover the historical gems of these incredible cities; of course, no post about Marrakech would be complete without mention of Jama El Fnaa. A labyrinth marketplace, small winding pathways revealing endless stores of spices, handmade goods and wares – and merchants as vibrant as their products! Be prepared for an experience like no other.

A few words of warning though; 1) don’t take photographs of the people unless you’re willing to pay a generous price, and 2) beware the deceit of locals when it comes to directions, they are known to mislead (or tell you you’ve got the wrong direction, or the road is closed) to make a quick hustle. Also, motorbikes! Especially in the souks, motorbikes will come slicing and dicing through the footfall every couple of minutes so be ready to dodge and make way.

A very similar experience, though I preferred its charm more than Jama El Fnaa, is the Medina of Fes. Same concept, but the vibe in Fes somehow felt more mystical, more enchanting than the loud bustle of Marrakech.

One of my favourite memories of this trip is visiting the world’s first university, the Qarawiyyin (or Karaouine), which was founded by a personal hero of mine, Fatima al Fihri. To finally behold it in person, in all of its intricate majesty and magnificence! The architecture, tiles and dazzling stucco work alone are an entire experience – even the irritable guard at the door couldn’t dampen my moment.

On our final day in Fes, we spent the hour before our airport trip to speedily dash to remaining sites local to us. Bou Inania was one of these, unfortunately between the admission fee (we were running low on currency) and the risk of losing too much time, we only stood outside for five minutes before moving on. It was stunning though, and I’d definitely go back with more time on my hands.

We stumbled at one point upon House of Photography in Fes which I’d seen recommended on various blogs – personally I couldn’t help but feel underwhelmed. This city has such incredibly vibrant experiences to offer, this just wasn’t one of them for me – but if this is your type of thing, give it a shot by all means. It was around the same time that we came across the famous Chouara Tannery in Fes and took five minutes to walk through the back of a merchant’s store, up to the viewpoint which overlooks the tannery itself. Despite the powerful stench of dye and leather, I’d definitely recommend it; it’s fascinating to see the range of dye, pigments and leather all laid out under the beaming sun whilst skilled craftsmen proceed with their work.

Also worth a mention is the iconic and ornate Bab Boujloud (or Bab Bou Jeloud) gate of Fes, which is “the main western entrance to Fes el Bali, the old city of Fes” and is also surrounded by stalls, cafes and restaurants.

Mosques & Mausoleums

If I took anything from this trip, it’d be visiting the mausoleum of Imam al Jazouli (the famous Shadhili Shaykh who authored the world famous Dalail al Khayrat). The building itself is discrete, almost hidden, but upon entrance you can taste the spirituality. The room where the Shaykh is at rest is an interesting space; around the entire perimeter of the wall are tombstones embedded into it dating back to the 1970s, with names and titles, and always adorned with the Qur’anic verse “Every soul shall taste death.” The khadim (keeper) here was one of the most sincere individuals we met in Morocco, generous with his hospitality and insisted that we visit again next year.

Visiting the mausoleum of Shaykh Syed Ahmed Tijani was too a spiritual rejuvenation, and the tomb itself is beautifully encased in white marble. I adored the community vibe here; having prayed isha here on two nights, I truly felt a sense of belonging, a tranquil state of contentment.

We’d searched for a while for the mausoleum of Qadi Iyaad, however we unfortunately found ourselves unsuccessful and instead handing over dirhams to a random Moroccan guy who insisted he was showing us the way – then joined by his friend, by the way, who had literally just turned up! We ended up surrendering some cash to avoid a scene (not for the friend though), and left. It may sound harsh but please, do not trust the locals with directions. It could’ve been worse.

On the above note, it’s worth downloading either an offline map of the area from Google Maps, or Maps.me which was highly recommended to us. I found Google Maps was sufficient for us, but better to have both than be left at the mercy of hustlers who may steer you wrong. Make sure to also grab a SIM card so you have internet wherever you go – we brought ours at the airport (£20 for 20GB, which was wasteful in hindsight as we barely used 1GB of it on our 7 day trip. Definitely worth estimating how much internet you need as they had a free SIM with 1 or 2GB!)

Continuing on, the mausoleum of Moulay Idris; an incredibly beautiful and ornate space with dazzling tilework, courtyard and Qandusi script. You can’t help but find yourself fascinated by every corner, every angle – and then you look up and lose yourself in the cosmos of extraordinary craftsmanship above. Here too, beware of hustlers – unfortunately, even a space as sacred as this is not free from the eyes and hands of opportunists. Every person who was ‘kind’ to us here, with gestures of hospitality or prayer, then charged us for it – and even those who didn’t do anything demanded payment, claiming titles or reasons beyond reason. Still, a stunning space and worth a visit.

On our first Friday in Morocco, we were fortunate enough to experience Friday prayer at the Ben Youssef Madrasa, a dazzling and tranquil space which echoed with crowds of people that day, a deeply soothing experience; I’d love to visit again one day outside of prayer times, to marvel more closely at the architecture and workmanship. Also stunning, the Koutoubia Mosque; the courtyard in particular stood out for me, with its rich green tiles and lush little trees, a sanctuary where the soft sounds of water and the sunlight on greenery make it feel so far from the bustle, so idyllic.

Sights & Gardens

One of the most magical things about Morocco has to be its gardens, some of the most picturesque I’ve ever seen. We did have several on our list, many of which we simply didn’t have time for (including Jardin Marjorelle), but we started off visiting Le Jardin Secret and it didn’t disappoint. Plush, with beautiful tiles and dazzling greenery, it is said to be one of largest and oldest palaces of the Marrakech medina.

Now, if you want in on an actual secret, we discovered a real hidden gem in Fes, literally moments before we had to dash to the airport to catch our return flight to Marrakech. Jardin Jnan Sbil is a short cab ride away from the bustle of the Fes medina, and it feels completely otherworldly. This garden is an oasis of calm, lush green walkways, water features – and a breathtaking lake with towering palm trees which we didn’t get to see in person due to time constraints. Still, the more we walked, the more we were enthralled and found ourselves saying “if only we’d discovered this place earlier” over and over again. One drawback however: we did find it slightly difficult to get back to the Fes medina as you need to wait and hail a cab, so you might find yourself looking at the clock.

Returning to Marrakech though, and continuing our theme of discovering fabulous gardens within the last moments before our airport run – this time, it was La Mamounia. I still had many remaining items on my Marrakech list on the last day, and La Mamounia came highly recommended (thanks, Ahsan) so we risked a quick tea and browse through the gardens. When I say it was a mad dash! We were literally looking at our watches every two minutes waiting for the tea to arrive. That being said, it was truly worth it because even in that short space of time, what we glimpsed was magnificent. Moorish opulence, stunning zellij tilework and an enchanting array of cacti, palm trees and greenery. Every now and then, you’ll spot a red cactus which – though they’re not real (of course I checked!) – look ridiculously chic.

Experiences

If you want to explore Marrakech in all of its brilliance, there is no other option which will allow you to taste the culture and breathe in the true extent of this incredible landscape than the Desert Agafay and Atlas Mountains Day Trip (by Art de Cuivre). We booked this on a whim, and it truly was the highlight of this trip. We climbed, hiked, dined on traditional Berber cuisine, explored waterfalls and tried camel-riding whilst traversing through the utterly astonishing terrains of Marrakech and the Atlas mountains. It’s quite intense so do bear that in mind (a lot of walking, inclines, jagged rock and sometimes heights) and definitely take suitable footwear.

If you’re looking for something more relaxing, I can’t recommend the Moroccan Cooking Workshops (by La Maison Arabe) enough. It was beyond my expectations, and we had so much fun learning to make our own tagines from charismatic teachers. The setup is lovely; a beautiful kitchen area where you have your own cooking stations, everything you need and individual screens which provide a closeup of your teachers cooking area at the front. Whilst the tagines cooked, we were taught how to make a traditional Moroccan saffron green tea which was a delightful touch. Once the session was over, we were seated outside in the courtyard with the rest of our group and our freshly cooked tagines were brought over to us so we could dine, chat and enjoy. A wholesome experience, and one I’d definitely add to your list.

Where to Eat

In terms of dining out, it must be said that nowhere really stood out for us as extraordinary. That being said, if you’re looking for a dessert near Jama el Fnaa, Zaytoun is a lovely spot and the balcony seats allow an intriguing view into the square below. For a bite, Kui-Zin was delicious– or try Café Atay if you love ambience and a sweet viewpoint, even better before sunset, though the menu is somewhat pricey and it’s not the best cuisine I’ve had. If you’re in Fes, definitely give Restaurant Drimo a try for a tasty bite, or Snack Malak which I quite liked too.

That’s it for this hefty Morocco post! Hope it was worth the wait, and feel free to let me know your feedback on Twitter – it’s @KnownAsZahra.

Til next time!

Morocco Postcard Summary

Welcome to the ‘Postcard Summary’, which is basically a summary of all the places, services and important notes mentioned throughout this post. I’ve also compiled all of these places onto a Google Map so you can easily refer to it on your travels. Enjoy!